I have two rows out my family's garden. My rows are about 36 feet long, with about 29" between them.
I'm hoping that the Country Gentleman corn will be abit sweeter than the Golden Bantam corn.
I am playing around with the weeds I already have, to see if I can create a bit of groundcover along the trellis.
I transplanted a total of 4 Luffa Gourds, the 2 that survived were smaller and both transplanted sooner. The 2 I attempted to transplant later withered up and died. I don't know why, perhaps the particularly rainy weather didn't help.
- PraticalGardener
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- PraticalGardener
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The left clump of leaves in the background is the grape arbor and some trees. Some of the family sunflowers and peas are peeking out from behind my corn row.
I favored the Lady's Thumb weed over the grass, thistles, and a few other weeds. There were times I weeded out some of the Lady's Thumb because it was growing tall enough to shade the corn. The kitten managed to sneak into the picture.
In the picture above, there is the Wando peas on the trellis. The 'living mulch' of weeds includes English Plantain, a flowering Queen Anne's Lace, Mouse-Eared Chickweed, Dandelions, White Clover, Ground Ivy, and a Lamb's Quarter. I weed out the Lamb's Quarter when I decide it is too tall.
To my limited understanding, Ground Ivy actually needs some shade, the leaves became yellow when it was getting too much sunlight. The Ground Ivy seems to be my ideal 'living mulch' out of the weeds I already have, provided I first give the vegetables a weed-free place to become established. Ground Ivy easily spreads and grows into a thick matt, and stays relatively short. I like how the White Clover pokes out through the Ground Ivy.
In hindsight, all these weeds is why you don't want to mulch with hay that has already gone to seed, even if it was moldy hay or was previously livestock bedding. Unless you and all of the gardeners thereafter are willing mulch deep with it every year afterwards or weed it all. Prevention is much easier, and probably a timesaver besides.
- PraticalGardener
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The winds with the thunderstorm knocked down some of my Country Gentleman corn. The trellis supported the section of corn row alongside it. I finally finished propping the corn up again, with a few t-posts and some spare baler twine; to make it easier to harvest the corn. The rest of the garden is fine overall.
- PraticalGardener
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Thank-you imafan26. Hopefully I will plant the corn in more of a block next year.
Thank-you SQUIB. I think the corn will be alright, the roots appeared to be intact. I have propped it up with a t-post at each end of the rows and some spare baler twine. I also propped up the larger individual corn plants with substantial rocks as needed.
I may try some things differently next year though. I normally don't hill the corn, but perhaps I will try it next time with some of this corn. I could also try to support it more before the stronger winds next time.
Thank-you SQUIB. I think the corn will be alright, the roots appeared to be intact. I have propped it up with a t-post at each end of the rows and some spare baler twine. I also propped up the larger individual corn plants with substantial rocks as needed.
I may try some things differently next year though. I normally don't hill the corn, but perhaps I will try it next time with some of this corn. I could also try to support it more before the stronger winds next time.
Sometimes when it is windy, mine fall too. I have been able to stake them up. In strong winds most of them will go down. I did put stakes around my perimeter one year and used two string lines around the perimeter and parallel lines between the rows about 3 ft up to stabilize them. Some of the tops snapped in the stronger wind, but in moderate winds they were able to stay standing.
- PraticalGardener
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Thank-you for everyone for all of your advice so far. In the meantime, here are some pictures and perhaps a few of my experiences along the way:
I put a zip tie on to mark that I hand-pollinated it with one of the male flowers. The rectangular in the panel measures 6"x8".
The flower is wilting and also held closed with a zip-tie. So far, I have a total of 6 Luffa gourds between the two plants.
This is a change for me, my family's Golden Bantam corn has pale corn silks.
I don't let morning glories grow up my corn plants anymore, but I occasionally allow them to grow up a sunflower. How can a weed be so pretty?
I transplanted this for fun, but one of them finally bloomed.
I put a zip tie on to mark that I hand-pollinated it with one of the male flowers. The rectangular in the panel measures 6"x8".
The flower is wilting and also held closed with a zip-tie. So far, I have a total of 6 Luffa gourds between the two plants.
This is a change for me, my family's Golden Bantam corn has pale corn silks.
I don't let morning glories grow up my corn plants anymore, but I occasionally allow them to grow up a sunflower. How can a weed be so pretty?
I transplanted this for fun, but one of them finally bloomed.
- PraticalGardener
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- PraticalGardener
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I harvested the Country Gentleman corn in late August. I missed the best time to harvest some of the shorter ears, but I have the majority of it picked and in the freezer.
The corn tastes different compared to the Golden Bantam corn I usually eat, but still passes the taste test. When compared to the Golden Bantam corn, the Country Gentleman corn had thicker corn cobs, smaller corn kernels, no worse corn earworm damage by comparison, and the Country Gentleman corn plants had more tillers/suckers. Both varieties of corn consistently produced two mature ears of corn per plant.
My 'living mulch' of weeds is almost entirely Lady's Thumb now, I think the Ground Ivy was shaded out due to the corn plants and the Lady's Thumb. I completely neglected to manage it since my last post, since all my vegetables were tall enough to thrive.
The corn tastes different compared to the Golden Bantam corn I usually eat, but still passes the taste test. When compared to the Golden Bantam corn, the Country Gentleman corn had thicker corn cobs, smaller corn kernels, no worse corn earworm damage by comparison, and the Country Gentleman corn plants had more tillers/suckers. Both varieties of corn consistently produced two mature ears of corn per plant.
My 'living mulch' of weeds is almost entirely Lady's Thumb now, I think the Ground Ivy was shaded out due to the corn plants and the Lady's Thumb. I completely neglected to manage it since my last post, since all my vegetables were tall enough to thrive.
- PraticalGardener
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I harvested nearly all of my Luffa Gourds on last Friday, but only used 2 of them as sponges. Most were not fully matured as sponges, and a few seemed to be possibly just starting to rot from the inside. I'm not certain since it is my first time growing them, but perhaps it was due to the previous night's low temperature of 44 degrees Fahrenheit.
Below is how I ended up harvesting and processing the gourds, or the attempt thereof, partly because I am learning by doing:
Use heavy-duty scissors to cut them off from the vines, harvested green due to a shorter growing season
Slap the gourds against a flat section of concrete to attempt to separate the sponges from the skins, I also consistently would break loose the bit of skin at the blossom end of the gourd, giving me a hole at the end of the Luffa Gourd's skin
Pull down the thick strings if available, then theoretically work downwards underneath the skin, then peel away and off the green skin
Rinse the Luffa gourd, but be careful not to lose the seeds, again
Bring them inside, cut the fibers/sponges into slices on the cutting board
With the slices and the ends, squeeze/slide the seeds out of their 'pockets' and put them into a strainer to rinse. Then rub and rinse thoroughly until all of the 'flesh' on the inside surfaces of the sponge are gone
Bleach dip the luffa gourd sponges and pieces, 4Tablespoons of bleach per 1Gallon of water
Set on a spare bedsheet to dry outside in the sunlight.
Spread out seeds to dry on paper towels or on plastic canvas.
Below is how I ended up harvesting and processing the gourds, or the attempt thereof, partly because I am learning by doing:
Use heavy-duty scissors to cut them off from the vines, harvested green due to a shorter growing season
Slap the gourds against a flat section of concrete to attempt to separate the sponges from the skins, I also consistently would break loose the bit of skin at the blossom end of the gourd, giving me a hole at the end of the Luffa Gourd's skin
Pull down the thick strings if available, then theoretically work downwards underneath the skin, then peel away and off the green skin
Rinse the Luffa gourd, but be careful not to lose the seeds, again
Bring them inside, cut the fibers/sponges into slices on the cutting board
With the slices and the ends, squeeze/slide the seeds out of their 'pockets' and put them into a strainer to rinse. Then rub and rinse thoroughly until all of the 'flesh' on the inside surfaces of the sponge are gone
Bleach dip the luffa gourd sponges and pieces, 4Tablespoons of bleach per 1Gallon of water
Set on a spare bedsheet to dry outside in the sunlight.
Spread out seeds to dry on paper towels or on plastic canvas.
We actually eat the young luffa gourds. There is a smooth and an angular luffa. It's other name is Chinese okra. It is used in soups and stir fries and like okra it is a little slimy. Gourds are usually eaten when they are 6-8 inches long. It can be eaten when over a foot, but then there would be too many for the soup.
- PraticalGardener
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- PraticalGardener
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- applestar
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Chickweed is supposed to indicate a certain amount of soil fertility. I want to make a skin salve and keep looking, but all I’m finding so far are mouse-eared ones. What Chickweed there are, are still tiny. I did harvest violets.
I tried to grow some soapwort (from seeds) but have not been successful....
I tried to grow some soapwort (from seeds) but have not been successful....
- PraticalGardener
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Thanks applestar, it's nice to know that one can use chickweed as an indicator towards the soil's fertility.
I guess I got the soapwart the easy way. The soapwart was already locally established and even helped itself to some of the flat (low-maintenance) flower beds. The soapwort grew in full sun or part shade, mostly in the southern flowerbed and a bit in the western flowerbed of the house.
I guess I got the soapwart the easy way. The soapwart was already locally established and even helped itself to some of the flat (low-maintenance) flower beds. The soapwort grew in full sun or part shade, mostly in the southern flowerbed and a bit in the western flowerbed of the house.
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Chickweed is the commonest weed in my garden in spring. It is a spring ephemeral and will all be gone by mid summer. It is named that because the chickens love it. It is very nutritious, with lots of B and C vitamins, calcium and other minerals. I put it in spring salads. It is reputed to have medicinal values as well.
- PraticalGardener
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- PraticalGardener
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- PraticalGardener
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The garden, or rather the thick silage 'mulch' on top, was tilled. Normally we don't add old silage but since it was spoiled anyways, we put a 'little' of it on the garden for all the 'organic matter'.
I marked my 'wide row' with wooden stakes at the opposite end of the garden from last year. My 'wide row' is marked about 20" wide and down to 30 feet long. The walking path is about 30" wide. I recommend wearing gloves when you hammer in wooden stakes, since I've already 'learned the hard way' from splinters.
The 'trellis' is part of a 'cattle panel', which I put on top of 3 rocks simply to prevent it from making direct soil contact, to slow down potential rust. The rectangles at the very bottom of this 'cattle panel' trellis measures 4"x8" and the larger holes measure 6"x8". The trellis is tied onto metals t-posts with some spare baler twine.
I transplanted my soapwort volunteers as two groups adjacent to the end of my new 'wide garden row'. There was also a violet that I happened to transplant again. The tomato cage is merely to remind everyone, including myself, not to walk on top of my 'wide row' again. I piled up some of the recently mowed grass clippings at both ends of my 'wide row', to prevent the weeds from getting established there temporarily.
I scraped off the 'mulch' and planted peas on April 20th, my thumbnail deep. Since I decided to use last year's pea seeds, I sowed them more thickly then usual. Partly due to the 'mulch' I was planting into heavy mud, so I didn't water as I usually do when initially sowing seeds. I have watered them on May 2nd, when the topsoil was dry and my Wando peas were first poking through.
I marked my 'wide row' with wooden stakes at the opposite end of the garden from last year. My 'wide row' is marked about 20" wide and down to 30 feet long. The walking path is about 30" wide. I recommend wearing gloves when you hammer in wooden stakes, since I've already 'learned the hard way' from splinters.
The 'trellis' is part of a 'cattle panel', which I put on top of 3 rocks simply to prevent it from making direct soil contact, to slow down potential rust. The rectangles at the very bottom of this 'cattle panel' trellis measures 4"x8" and the larger holes measure 6"x8". The trellis is tied onto metals t-posts with some spare baler twine.
I transplanted my soapwort volunteers as two groups adjacent to the end of my new 'wide garden row'. There was also a violet that I happened to transplant again. The tomato cage is merely to remind everyone, including myself, not to walk on top of my 'wide row' again. I piled up some of the recently mowed grass clippings at both ends of my 'wide row', to prevent the weeds from getting established there temporarily.
I scraped off the 'mulch' and planted peas on April 20th, my thumbnail deep. Since I decided to use last year's pea seeds, I sowed them more thickly then usual. Partly due to the 'mulch' I was planting into heavy mud, so I didn't water as I usually do when initially sowing seeds. I have watered them on May 2nd, when the topsoil was dry and my Wando peas were first poking through.
- PraticalGardener
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We think the lilac had its main bloom. Using the main lilac bloom is how I learned when to plant most things that don't tolerate frost as much. One of my family members tried using 'the oak leaves the size of a squirrels ear', but found it varied between individual trees; then realized our favorite lilac was the same timing as the average of the oak tree leaves of about the size of a squirrel's ear. It is possible to have a very late surprise frost, even when going by the main lilac bloom to plant seeds.
From left to right, facing East, the 'wide row' is basically planted as: corn, snapdragon flowers, peas, a tomato, transplanted volunteer potatoes, flax, and soapwart.
On May 9th, I planted my Country Gentleman Corn again, but in a different arrangement. I wanted to try this way at least once. I used spare baler twine to ensure that the center 'rows' of the 'groups' are in a straight line, this time. In this picture, the center 'row' is for 3 corn plants, then the outside 'rows' are for 2 corn plants, both offset from the center 'row'. The center rock and sticks to mark the corn plants are spaced 1ft apart from eachother, whereas I set the 'walking space' 2 1/2ft wide. I made some variations to some of the other 'groups' of corn. I decided to plant some old Mammoth sunflower seeds along the back left 'corner' of the patches, partly because these sunflowers might grow to be taller than the corn, if they grow at all.
I also planted some 'Candy Showers Deep Purple' Trailing Snapdragons in a 'raised bed', simply to help make them easier to find. The downside is by doing so, I also have to water them more frequently than at ground level, but less frequently than in a container.
I watered my peas and soapwart three times since my last post, to try to keep the peas in moist soil between the rains. I transplanted some 'mutt' sunflowers to partially shade the pea plants on the trellis and on the tomato cages. Since I didn't see more than one Wando pea sprout on the trellis, I replanted with this years Wando seeds on May 15th. I think the problem was that I didn't 'till' the soil to loosen it prior to planting peas the first time, based on an after-the-fact germination test with last year's pea seeds.
I added a spare tomato plant to my 'pea trellis', partly to see if I like their taste. I am copying what one of my family members does by (later) tying this tomato plant up to the cattle panel 'trellis'.
I sowed my flax on May 9th, next to the Soapwart. I am hoping to let some of it go to seed, and if I am energetic, I might try to process it for the fibers. This (Linum usitatissimum) Flax is the same kind as used for linen cloth. Due to the lack of information on how to plant flax, I decided to fall back on how I eventually successfully grew carrots from seed. In my case it may simply be a case of discovering what 'my knack' is that works for me. I 'tilled' and leveled out the soil as best as I could, then simply scattered the seeds on top of the soil. I gently pressed the seeds onto the soil's surface with my hand. Then I took a one-ply layer of a paper towel and laid them on top, making sure to weigh them down with rocks this time. Around May 15th, I have lots of flax sprouting. I covered them somewhat, as a precaution to prevent the birds from eating the seeds and sprouts.
I have 3 volunteer potato plants I transplanted in, they are either white or red potatoes. I still had even more room left over, so from right to left I tried sowing old seeds of tall snapdragons, old seeds of zinnas, and last years Wando pea seeds on yet another tomato cage. You can see how I attempted to protect most of the flax seeds and sprouts from birds with a spare upside-down wire mesh waste basket. The thing in the middle of the picture is a weathered Luffa gourd sponge that 'skinned out' but didn't intend to keep last year.
From left to right, facing East, the 'wide row' is basically planted as: corn, snapdragon flowers, peas, a tomato, transplanted volunteer potatoes, flax, and soapwart.
On May 9th, I planted my Country Gentleman Corn again, but in a different arrangement. I wanted to try this way at least once. I used spare baler twine to ensure that the center 'rows' of the 'groups' are in a straight line, this time. In this picture, the center 'row' is for 3 corn plants, then the outside 'rows' are for 2 corn plants, both offset from the center 'row'. The center rock and sticks to mark the corn plants are spaced 1ft apart from eachother, whereas I set the 'walking space' 2 1/2ft wide. I made some variations to some of the other 'groups' of corn. I decided to plant some old Mammoth sunflower seeds along the back left 'corner' of the patches, partly because these sunflowers might grow to be taller than the corn, if they grow at all.
I also planted some 'Candy Showers Deep Purple' Trailing Snapdragons in a 'raised bed', simply to help make them easier to find. The downside is by doing so, I also have to water them more frequently than at ground level, but less frequently than in a container.
I watered my peas and soapwart three times since my last post, to try to keep the peas in moist soil between the rains. I transplanted some 'mutt' sunflowers to partially shade the pea plants on the trellis and on the tomato cages. Since I didn't see more than one Wando pea sprout on the trellis, I replanted with this years Wando seeds on May 15th. I think the problem was that I didn't 'till' the soil to loosen it prior to planting peas the first time, based on an after-the-fact germination test with last year's pea seeds.
I added a spare tomato plant to my 'pea trellis', partly to see if I like their taste. I am copying what one of my family members does by (later) tying this tomato plant up to the cattle panel 'trellis'.
I sowed my flax on May 9th, next to the Soapwart. I am hoping to let some of it go to seed, and if I am energetic, I might try to process it for the fibers. This (Linum usitatissimum) Flax is the same kind as used for linen cloth. Due to the lack of information on how to plant flax, I decided to fall back on how I eventually successfully grew carrots from seed. In my case it may simply be a case of discovering what 'my knack' is that works for me. I 'tilled' and leveled out the soil as best as I could, then simply scattered the seeds on top of the soil. I gently pressed the seeds onto the soil's surface with my hand. Then I took a one-ply layer of a paper towel and laid them on top, making sure to weigh them down with rocks this time. Around May 15th, I have lots of flax sprouting. I covered them somewhat, as a precaution to prevent the birds from eating the seeds and sprouts.
I have 3 volunteer potato plants I transplanted in, they are either white or red potatoes. I still had even more room left over, so from right to left I tried sowing old seeds of tall snapdragons, old seeds of zinnas, and last years Wando pea seeds on yet another tomato cage. You can see how I attempted to protect most of the flax seeds and sprouts from birds with a spare upside-down wire mesh waste basket. The thing in the middle of the picture is a weathered Luffa gourd sponge that 'skinned out' but didn't intend to keep last year.
- applestar
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You got a lot going! I had to chuckle about the trees not sticking to squirrel ear size standard.
I wanted to try cattle panels but gave up due to logistics for transporting the long panels, and ouchie prices of the shorter panels which were also rather rare in this area. Bummer because there are other cattle panel projects that look interesting. I use the easier obtained concrete mesh flat panels secured about a foot up off the ground on t-posts. The young plants get supported with Fiberglas electric fence poles until they are tall enough, then poles are removed to be used elsewhere.
I’m looking forward to reading about your flax project
I wanted to try cattle panels but gave up due to logistics for transporting the long panels, and ouchie prices of the shorter panels which were also rather rare in this area. Bummer because there are other cattle panel projects that look interesting. I use the easier obtained concrete mesh flat panels secured about a foot up off the ground on t-posts. The young plants get supported with Fiberglas electric fence poles until they are tall enough, then poles are removed to be used elsewhere.
I’m looking forward to reading about your flax project
- PraticalGardener
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I have to agree applestar, it was something I hadn't really thought about until I was told about the oak leaves too. I am also looking forwards to the flax. I think it will be fun, both to grow and to see how much work it is to process.
Admittedly, having access to a large trailer comes in handy for transporting cattle panels. I glad you shared about the (galvanized) concrete mesh panels, I didn't know there were any other sturdy premade alternatives. I enjoyed learning about intentionally setting the trellis up even higher, I might try it sometime.
Admittedly, having access to a large trailer comes in handy for transporting cattle panels. I glad you shared about the (galvanized) concrete mesh panels, I didn't know there were any other sturdy premade alternatives. I enjoyed learning about intentionally setting the trellis up even higher, I might try it sometime.
- PraticalGardener
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I have one Country Gentleman corn sprout.
The good news is that my other older Wando peas are finally sprouting.
I now have 8 Wando pea sprouts so far on the cattle panel 'trellis', and 6 Wando pea sprouts along the tomato cages. I planted a few of the germinated Wando pea seeds on the last tomato cage. In hindsight I probably did not have to replant the pea seeds after all, but I also didn't want to wait too long. I can plant them during summer, but that would also mean that I would have to water them frequently. The Tall Telephone Pea is about 5" tall, and the Tom Thumb peas range from 1-3" tall. The weed towards the right with heart-shaped leaves on the trellis is probably a Morning Glory, which I might allow to grow if no peas grow there. I will have to weed out the patch of grass that is growing at the tomato cage.
Several of these little black pests eat these pinholes in potato leaves. They hop very well, so they are difficult to catch, to the point it is basically a game of luck. All three of my volunteer potato plants have these pinholes in them.
- PraticalGardener
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On May 31st, I transplanted some 'mutt sunflowers'. Since I only have two sprouted corn plants, I soaked some corn seeds for an hour (I forgot to start it sooner, and it was my first time to soak seeds) and planted them.
Other than some pea seedlings getting eaten, as though bitten off, the garden seems to be doing well overall.
Some of the Tom Thumb peas have white blossoms developing, and I now have at least one pea pod. I tied the Tall Telephone pea loosely to the trellis to help it get started on grabbing onto the trellis. I weed out grass on sight when big enough to weed out by my bare hand. I am leaving some of the 'Lady's Thumb' (a weed) and volunteer sunflowers temporarily, to shade the ground abit, if they don't interfere with the veggie plants I intend to nurture.
I seem to be doing a fine job of what not to do here. Basically my conclusion so far is that too much of the 'fresh' silage 'mulch' was not initially helpful for some crops in the garden, probably by leading to a nitrogen deficiency while it is still decomposing. One of the two corn sprouts was yellow for a while now, and the transplanted volunteer 'mystery vines' are starting to yellow. The tomato had yellowed severely, but it evidently recovered.
The flax seems to be doing very well.
I watered the flax, tomato plant, and transplanted 'mutt' sunflowers twice since May 31st. Don't mind the upper left corner in the picture too much, that's the lawn (or rather the garden weeds in the meantime) reclaiming the downsized garden space.
Other than some pea seedlings getting eaten, as though bitten off, the garden seems to be doing well overall.
Some of the Tom Thumb peas have white blossoms developing, and I now have at least one pea pod. I tied the Tall Telephone pea loosely to the trellis to help it get started on grabbing onto the trellis. I weed out grass on sight when big enough to weed out by my bare hand. I am leaving some of the 'Lady's Thumb' (a weed) and volunteer sunflowers temporarily, to shade the ground abit, if they don't interfere with the veggie plants I intend to nurture.
I seem to be doing a fine job of what not to do here. Basically my conclusion so far is that too much of the 'fresh' silage 'mulch' was not initially helpful for some crops in the garden, probably by leading to a nitrogen deficiency while it is still decomposing. One of the two corn sprouts was yellow for a while now, and the transplanted volunteer 'mystery vines' are starting to yellow. The tomato had yellowed severely, but it evidently recovered.
The flax seems to be doing very well.
I watered the flax, tomato plant, and transplanted 'mutt' sunflowers twice since May 31st. Don't mind the upper left corner in the picture too much, that's the lawn (or rather the garden weeds in the meantime) reclaiming the downsized garden space.
- PraticalGardener
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If I have to weed quickly (yet mindfully) by hand, I pull the weeds that are closest to the desired plants first, in this case a sunflower plant. This way merely 'buys time' until I can come back to do a more thorough weeding later. I personally use my bare hands, up until I find a thistle.
I personally like to take the freshly pulled weeds and make them into little piles, to use as mulch. This mulch alone does not cover very much area though.
- PraticalGardener
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- Location: Potomac Highlands region, West Virginia, USA (Zone 6a?)
On June 12th, I noticed that my replanted corn seeds are sprouting. However, it is almost entirely of the seeds that I saved from last year that are sprouting, as compared to the 1-year old corn seeds. Below is a picture of my first corn plant this year, compared to the replanted corn seeds. Basically 1ft tall vs. about 4 to 5inches tall corn plants. Not as many corn plants as I was hoping for, but I can improvise with the 'newfound space'.
I ate my first harvest of Tom Thumb peas the other day, it passed the taste test. I think the first pod had 7 peas inside, but the second pod had 5 peas inside, so it varies a little bit.
Normally I am quick to weed out all the volunteer sunflowers in the potato patch. However, this year I am not especially concerned with the production of only three transplanted volunteer potato plants, so I might leave a few volunteer sunflowers alone.
Outside my 'wide garden row': I wanted to grow some Spaghetti Squash to see if I like the taste. I started these two Spaghetti Squash outside of my 'wide garden row', planted directly in place on May 10th, and both sprouted at May 23rd. I wanted one of them on a trellis, just in case of powdery mildew. I might have to transplant one of these ones. My intention is to grow most of the Spaghetti Squash plants 'alongside' my corn, sprawling out over the ground.
The Tall Telephone Pea plant has been yellowing and appears to be dying. I ate my first harvest of Tom Thumb peas the other day, it passed the taste test. I think the first pod had 7 peas inside, but the second pod had 5 peas inside, so it varies a little bit.
Normally I am quick to weed out all the volunteer sunflowers in the potato patch. However, this year I am not especially concerned with the production of only three transplanted volunteer potato plants, so I might leave a few volunteer sunflowers alone.
Outside my 'wide garden row': I wanted to grow some Spaghetti Squash to see if I like the taste. I started these two Spaghetti Squash outside of my 'wide garden row', planted directly in place on May 10th, and both sprouted at May 23rd. I wanted one of them on a trellis, just in case of powdery mildew. I might have to transplant one of these ones. My intention is to grow most of the Spaghetti Squash plants 'alongside' my corn, sprawling out over the ground.
- PraticalGardener
- Senior Member
- Posts: 102
- Joined: Sun Feb 11, 2018 1:02 pm
- Location: Potomac Highlands region, West Virginia, USA (Zone 6a?)
June 14th
I added another 'cattle panel' trellis and planted 1/2 Runner Beans. I also planted 3 Spaghetti Squash 'alongside' my 'wide row'. June 21
I weeded my 'wide row' and went through the trouble of tying up my pea plants this time, largely for the convenience of being able to easily see if there are any pea pods, especially if I want to eat them before the plants die in order to 'go to seed'.
While doing so, two wrens (or something similar) kept chirping at me unhappily. What I didn't quite realize was that they had a fledgling baby in the middle of the garden, perched on a 'cattle panel' pea trellis in the middle of the garden. I didn't see any obvious injuries on it. When I checked back the following morning, I didn't see it. Presumably it moved to a new location or got eaten. No wonder the parent birds were unhappy with my presence! June 25
I noticed that all 3 Spaghetti Squash plants have sprouted.
I think the flax might be getting ready to 'branch out' or bloom eventually. I keep thinning out the Soapwart to give more sunlight to the flax, the flax closest to the soapwart is still really short.
My Wando peas are finally blooming.
June 29 I hadn't gotten around to training up these Spagetti Squash yet. In hindsight I transplanted them way too close together for my preference, since I figured I might lose one when transplanting, except both of them survived.
I noticed more tomato blossoms and the first few green cherry tomatoes developing.
I also realized that my first few flax flowers have appeared!
June 30
The flax plants varied in height from about 14" to just over 2feet tall, if I don't count the most shaded flax plants. I think it does best in full sun, since the most shaded flax near the soapwart were abit yellow and one of the shortest flax plants is now finally 5" tall.
July 4th I finally re-positioned the two transplanted Spagetti Squash to grow on the trellis, with some help. The extra large holes cut out of the panel turned out to be handy to help weave the plants back and forth on the trellis abit, since I didn't get around to it until after they had grown quite a bit. I wore gloves for some of the work and recruited a helper, as the plants are covered in really tiny thorns along the stems that were all-too-easy to overlook initially. Afterwards I finally blossom-bagged the female flower buds, now that I know what they look like.
I also tied up the Wando peas again, since a few of them grew a lot taller. This morning I finally managed to get a picture of several flax blooming.
Suprisingly, the pollen appears to be more blue than any yellow.
July 5th I finally gave a more-through weeding to my 'wide garden row'. I ended up pulling out most of the Lady's Thumb weeds, especially from near the more desirable vegetable plants.
A few more of the 1/2 Runner Beans are sprouting along the trellis.
Wando and Tom Thumb peas taste comparison attempt:
I finally tasted each of my peas in more of a side-by-side comparison twice now. I took a drink of water between tasting each type of the peas. My conclusion is the Wando peas seem to taste slightly richer overall. The Tom Thumb peas seem sweeter when small, but become slightly more plain in taste as they get larger.
The Tom Thumb pea plants were harder for me to pick the Tom Thumb peas initially, mostly by how far I have to reach, but also due to thicker stems where the pea pods attach, as compared to Wando pea plants. Still, both of them seem to be worth growing again so far.
I think I will let the last remaining Tom Thumb pea go to seed at this point, since I don't know how soon the heat might finish the Tom Pea Plant off, but it looks perfectly healthy for now. The shade from the sunflower plants may be helping it to cope with the heat some.
The Flax is as tall as 2 feet and 5 inches tall. It is still doing a nice show of blue flowers today at noon.
I added another 'cattle panel' trellis and planted 1/2 Runner Beans. I also planted 3 Spaghetti Squash 'alongside' my 'wide row'. June 21
I weeded my 'wide row' and went through the trouble of tying up my pea plants this time, largely for the convenience of being able to easily see if there are any pea pods, especially if I want to eat them before the plants die in order to 'go to seed'.
While doing so, two wrens (or something similar) kept chirping at me unhappily. What I didn't quite realize was that they had a fledgling baby in the middle of the garden, perched on a 'cattle panel' pea trellis in the middle of the garden. I didn't see any obvious injuries on it. When I checked back the following morning, I didn't see it. Presumably it moved to a new location or got eaten. No wonder the parent birds were unhappy with my presence! June 25
I noticed that all 3 Spaghetti Squash plants have sprouted.
I think the flax might be getting ready to 'branch out' or bloom eventually. I keep thinning out the Soapwart to give more sunlight to the flax, the flax closest to the soapwart is still really short.
My Wando peas are finally blooming.
June 29 I hadn't gotten around to training up these Spagetti Squash yet. In hindsight I transplanted them way too close together for my preference, since I figured I might lose one when transplanting, except both of them survived.
I noticed more tomato blossoms and the first few green cherry tomatoes developing.
I also realized that my first few flax flowers have appeared!
June 30
The flax plants varied in height from about 14" to just over 2feet tall, if I don't count the most shaded flax plants. I think it does best in full sun, since the most shaded flax near the soapwart were abit yellow and one of the shortest flax plants is now finally 5" tall.
July 4th I finally re-positioned the two transplanted Spagetti Squash to grow on the trellis, with some help. The extra large holes cut out of the panel turned out to be handy to help weave the plants back and forth on the trellis abit, since I didn't get around to it until after they had grown quite a bit. I wore gloves for some of the work and recruited a helper, as the plants are covered in really tiny thorns along the stems that were all-too-easy to overlook initially. Afterwards I finally blossom-bagged the female flower buds, now that I know what they look like.
I also tied up the Wando peas again, since a few of them grew a lot taller. This morning I finally managed to get a picture of several flax blooming.
Suprisingly, the pollen appears to be more blue than any yellow.
July 5th I finally gave a more-through weeding to my 'wide garden row'. I ended up pulling out most of the Lady's Thumb weeds, especially from near the more desirable vegetable plants.
A few more of the 1/2 Runner Beans are sprouting along the trellis.
Wando and Tom Thumb peas taste comparison attempt:
I finally tasted each of my peas in more of a side-by-side comparison twice now. I took a drink of water between tasting each type of the peas. My conclusion is the Wando peas seem to taste slightly richer overall. The Tom Thumb peas seem sweeter when small, but become slightly more plain in taste as they get larger.
The Tom Thumb pea plants were harder for me to pick the Tom Thumb peas initially, mostly by how far I have to reach, but also due to thicker stems where the pea pods attach, as compared to Wando pea plants. Still, both of them seem to be worth growing again so far.
I think I will let the last remaining Tom Thumb pea go to seed at this point, since I don't know how soon the heat might finish the Tom Pea Plant off, but it looks perfectly healthy for now. The shade from the sunflower plants may be helping it to cope with the heat some.
The Flax is as tall as 2 feet and 5 inches tall. It is still doing a nice show of blue flowers today at noon.
- applestar
- Mod
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- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
You’ve been busy! I love the flax blossoms. I keep thinking I want to do a 4th of July flower bed — red white and blue — maybe next year, I will try with flax as one of the blue flowers... I’m thinking same bed will be also planted with spring flowers / Memorial Day — a candidate for blue is sky blue grape hyacinth. It’s hard to find the Not-Purple blue flowers that bloom at the right time.
- PraticalGardener
- Senior Member
- Posts: 102
- Joined: Sun Feb 11, 2018 1:02 pm
- Location: Potomac Highlands region, West Virginia, USA (Zone 6a?)
The flax can seem to have a hint of light purple, rather than a true blue color.
I hate to suggest this weed but Common Chickory (Cichorium intybus) is blue when freshly blooming, although it gets more pale towards a light purple to eventually completely pale as the flowers age.
Thank-you for the compliment imafan26. I am 'playing around with' string beans more recently, although I don't eat them much. Out of the few I've tried so far, the 1/2 Runner are my favorite overall, partly due to a smooth surface area. This year I am hoping to practice saving the 1/2 Runner Beans for seed for seed.
Scarlet Runner beans tasted ok as a string bean, but it had a more textured surface area that I personally didn't care for as much. I didn't try soaking the dried seeds to eat. I do like how the Scarlet Runner beans will go to seed and still keep producing new bean pods though.
I hate to suggest this weed but Common Chickory (Cichorium intybus) is blue when freshly blooming, although it gets more pale towards a light purple to eventually completely pale as the flowers age.
Thank-you for the compliment imafan26. I am 'playing around with' string beans more recently, although I don't eat them much. Out of the few I've tried so far, the 1/2 Runner are my favorite overall, partly due to a smooth surface area. This year I am hoping to practice saving the 1/2 Runner Beans for seed for seed.
Scarlet Runner beans tasted ok as a string bean, but it had a more textured surface area that I personally didn't care for as much. I didn't try soaking the dried seeds to eat. I do like how the Scarlet Runner beans will go to seed and still keep producing new bean pods though.
- TomatoNut95
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 2069
- Joined: Sun May 26, 2019 11:11 am
- Location: Texas Zone 8
- applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30600
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
You know, that reminded me that a few years ago, I got a meculun mix of lettuce, arugula, and radicchio, and to my surprise, the radicchio survived the winter, then made a cute red/purple head. For several years thereafter until somehow they disappeared, they would bolt and bloom cornflower/chicory blue flowers, then self seed and later form a head in late winter/early summer.PraticalGardener wrote:The flax can seem to have a hint of light purple, rather than a true blue color.
I hate to suggest this weed but Common Chickory (Cichorium intybus) is blue when freshly blooming, although it gets more pale towards a light purple to eventually completely pale as the flowers age.
Maybe I should try growing some radicchio again....
- PraticalGardener
- Senior Member
- Posts: 102
- Joined: Sun Feb 11, 2018 1:02 pm
- Location: Potomac Highlands region, West Virginia, USA (Zone 6a?)
My pictures may be a little out of order with the dates, but I will share some pictures anyways.
July 13th
I hand-pollinated the first blossom-bagged female flower of Spaghetti Squash a while back, with one of the male flowers I plucked off, and it is maturing into a spaghetti squash. I thinned out a few more sunflower plants, and/or stripped off some of their lower leaves, to give my few corn plants some more sunlight.
I finally figured out that these ball-shaped things are what the flax seeds develop in. When I opened one up, they were filled with flax seeds, but the seeds were entirely white instead of dark brown like the ones I had sown. Although possibly too early in hindsight to harvest for the flax fibers, I thinned out the flax plants I didn't want to go to seed. I pulled out the shorter flax plants, even though most were probably shorter due to location in more shade rather than genetics. I wouldn't be surprised if the short flax plants were not matured enough in fibers, but I plan to 'play around' with them anyways to see how their fibers turn out, if at all.
I basically pulled out the flax, roots and all, tied them up into a bundle and hung the bundle to hopefully dry out.
July 20th
The one corn plant is about full size now. I hadn't gotten around to hilling any of the corn plants yet, I might just let them go without hilling again this year.
Only some of the 1/2 Runner beans appeared to have sprouted, but the ones that did are doing well so far.
The Spaghetti Squash are beginning to sprawl out, but one is particularly vigorous. I'm not doing a good job of keeping up with pollinating female blooms of the ones on the trellis, but I definitely have one squash maturing.
The morning glories are blooming well. Some of the Wando pea plants are dying now, presumably because of the high temperatures finally 'kicking in'. I pulled all but one of said dying pea plants, the remaining dead one has a few nice pea pods on it. Normally I don't bother pulling out dead pea plants, but I want to attempt to save the best plants to go to seed.
For some reason some of the pea pods are 'bumpy' (stippling?) from some of the plants, I'm not sure whether it is from insect damage or not, but the peas still look and tasted fine.
July 23rd
My first planted and best single Country Gentleman sweet corn is both tasseling and has silks. The Half Runner Beans are growing, I was able to just start training a few of them up the trellis. The transplanted Spagetti Squash plants have two squash developing so far, but I haven't been able to successfully time/coordinate the male flowers to pollinate the female flowers, so some of the female flowers are dying.
All three of the planted Spagetti Squash are 'sprawling out' over the ground.
Some of the 'mutt' volunteer sunflowers are 'branching out', especially the ones that have multiple flower heads. I am leaving my remaining Wando peas to go to seed, or at least attempting to.
I am finally caught up on tying up the Sweet 100 cherry tomato plant. It was very leggy and tall, especially when stretched upright, yet very healthy. My guess is it is leggy due to attempting to find sunlight, in the shade of the sunflower plants.
I stripped off some of the leaves off of some of my sunflower plants, to encourage more sunlight to reach the tomato plant.
The flax looked a little wind-blown, but intact. The thunderstorm the other day had a wind of at least 23 miles per hour, but it is not what I consider to be a strong wind for this area from my experience. It was probably unnecessary, but I babied the little flax patch by tying up the flax perimeter a bit anyways. The soapwart patch visually looks like a mess, with plants partly flattened, but perhaps also because the outermost plants were previously 'trimmed' by the lawnmower a bit. The soapwart plants are healthy though, so I'm not worried about them.
July 13th
I hand-pollinated the first blossom-bagged female flower of Spaghetti Squash a while back, with one of the male flowers I plucked off, and it is maturing into a spaghetti squash. I thinned out a few more sunflower plants, and/or stripped off some of their lower leaves, to give my few corn plants some more sunlight.
I finally figured out that these ball-shaped things are what the flax seeds develop in. When I opened one up, they were filled with flax seeds, but the seeds were entirely white instead of dark brown like the ones I had sown. Although possibly too early in hindsight to harvest for the flax fibers, I thinned out the flax plants I didn't want to go to seed. I pulled out the shorter flax plants, even though most were probably shorter due to location in more shade rather than genetics. I wouldn't be surprised if the short flax plants were not matured enough in fibers, but I plan to 'play around' with them anyways to see how their fibers turn out, if at all.
I basically pulled out the flax, roots and all, tied them up into a bundle and hung the bundle to hopefully dry out.
July 20th
The one corn plant is about full size now. I hadn't gotten around to hilling any of the corn plants yet, I might just let them go without hilling again this year.
Only some of the 1/2 Runner beans appeared to have sprouted, but the ones that did are doing well so far.
The Spaghetti Squash are beginning to sprawl out, but one is particularly vigorous. I'm not doing a good job of keeping up with pollinating female blooms of the ones on the trellis, but I definitely have one squash maturing.
The morning glories are blooming well. Some of the Wando pea plants are dying now, presumably because of the high temperatures finally 'kicking in'. I pulled all but one of said dying pea plants, the remaining dead one has a few nice pea pods on it. Normally I don't bother pulling out dead pea plants, but I want to attempt to save the best plants to go to seed.
For some reason some of the pea pods are 'bumpy' (stippling?) from some of the plants, I'm not sure whether it is from insect damage or not, but the peas still look and tasted fine.
July 23rd
My first planted and best single Country Gentleman sweet corn is both tasseling and has silks. The Half Runner Beans are growing, I was able to just start training a few of them up the trellis. The transplanted Spagetti Squash plants have two squash developing so far, but I haven't been able to successfully time/coordinate the male flowers to pollinate the female flowers, so some of the female flowers are dying.
All three of the planted Spagetti Squash are 'sprawling out' over the ground.
Some of the 'mutt' volunteer sunflowers are 'branching out', especially the ones that have multiple flower heads. I am leaving my remaining Wando peas to go to seed, or at least attempting to.
I am finally caught up on tying up the Sweet 100 cherry tomato plant. It was very leggy and tall, especially when stretched upright, yet very healthy. My guess is it is leggy due to attempting to find sunlight, in the shade of the sunflower plants.
I stripped off some of the leaves off of some of my sunflower plants, to encourage more sunlight to reach the tomato plant.
The flax looked a little wind-blown, but intact. The thunderstorm the other day had a wind of at least 23 miles per hour, but it is not what I consider to be a strong wind for this area from my experience. It was probably unnecessary, but I babied the little flax patch by tying up the flax perimeter a bit anyways. The soapwart patch visually looks like a mess, with plants partly flattened, but perhaps also because the outermost plants were previously 'trimmed' by the lawnmower a bit. The soapwart plants are healthy though, so I'm not worried about them.
Last edited by PraticalGardener on Wed Jul 24, 2019 10:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- TomatoNut95
- Super Green Thumb
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- applestar
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- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
Looking good!
I’ve had the multi-headed, mutt volunteer sunflowers growing before. My guess is from dropped seeds from my or someone else’s bird feeder by birds or buried by chipmunks and/or squirrels. I tried to leave them growing for *the birds* — living birdfeeder. Works great for chickadees and titmouse... until almost inevitably, the squirrels find them and climb up the weaker side flowerheads. Their weight is too much for these thin stems and they fall over and get broken off. I ended up tying some the broken off heads to the bird feeder post
Hopefully, the fibers in those thinned flax will be developed/tough enough after drying out. I suppose you would have to soak?
I’ve had the multi-headed, mutt volunteer sunflowers growing before. My guess is from dropped seeds from my or someone else’s bird feeder by birds or buried by chipmunks and/or squirrels. I tried to leave them growing for *the birds* — living birdfeeder. Works great for chickadees and titmouse... until almost inevitably, the squirrels find them and climb up the weaker side flowerheads. Their weight is too much for these thin stems and they fall over and get broken off. I ended up tying some the broken off heads to the bird feeder post
Hopefully, the fibers in those thinned flax will be developed/tough enough after drying out. I suppose you would have to soak?