Long time, no see... Been busy!
So, a few days ago, while harvesting the last of my green beans, I was startled by a large praying mantis. While I startled a bit when something I didn't see as something other than a part of the plant moved when I got close to it, I was happy to see it there! Obviously, praying mantis is among the beneficial insects you want to have in your garden! They don't eat the plants, but, rather, the bugs that harm your plants!
But, that overgrown set of bean plants is set to come out next weekend. Some new plants have already gone in, but they're fairly small, right now. Not good cover for a hand-sized "bug!" And advice on keeping the "good" bug around? Options I've bandied around are leaving the remnants of the beans near the garden (on the wall) so it still has shelter, or tying up the dead and dry corn stalks also near the garden instead of putting them out front as festive fall decor. It's now my second year seeing a mantis around my garden, so they obviously feel at home here, but I don't want to disrupt this one too badly!
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TomatoNut95
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applestar
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If it was a very large one, especially with a swollen abdomen, it is a female and will soon lay her eggs in a foam egg case called “ootheca” — look up Carolina mantis — if this is the species you have, the ootheca will not be as distinctive as an imported species mantis that has a distinctive triangular ball about 1 inch in diameter. I find many of these triangular ootheca but have only found the Carolina mantis ootheca in one area of my garden — I think it was by chance that this species flew in/survived and now I look for new ootheca in the particular area every year. But am sure they are more prevalent in your location.
Obviously, don’t use broad spectrum pesticides. It’s safe to clear out your garden on schedule — just be more observant as you do and try to stick to manual tools so you don’t accidentally hurt the mantis if it’s still in the patch and need to get away. She’ll find her ideal spot to lay eggs.
Typically, I find the ootheca pretty high up on bare branches of shrubs or high-arching blanckberry canes and trellised grape vines ...or as high as possible on still-standing tall, sturdy herbaceous plants such as asparagus fronds... and sometimes on wire fencing. They tend to be just short of very top — no doubt to keep from offering the eggs and babies up as “buffet” to birds. The ootheca can be pecked or nibbled by birds or rodents during the cold months. They hatch in late spring when daytime temps consistently get up into the mid-high 80’s, but unseasonable heatwave have occasionally caused confused babies on one part of the ootheca to hatch — others will hatch later when more appropriate. Mass hatching can be creepy to some, but I view it as celebratory.
Obviously, don’t use broad spectrum pesticides. It’s safe to clear out your garden on schedule — just be more observant as you do and try to stick to manual tools so you don’t accidentally hurt the mantis if it’s still in the patch and need to get away. She’ll find her ideal spot to lay eggs.
Typically, I find the ootheca pretty high up on bare branches of shrubs or high-arching blanckberry canes and trellised grape vines ...or as high as possible on still-standing tall, sturdy herbaceous plants such as asparagus fronds... and sometimes on wire fencing. They tend to be just short of very top — no doubt to keep from offering the eggs and babies up as “buffet” to birds. The ootheca can be pecked or nibbled by birds or rodents during the cold months. They hatch in late spring when daytime temps consistently get up into the mid-high 80’s, but unseasonable heatwave have occasionally caused confused babies on one part of the ootheca to hatch — others will hatch later when more appropriate. Mass hatching can be creepy to some, but I view it as celebratory.
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MsDDC
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Based on some googling, I'm 99% sure it was Chinese. Apparently Carolina mantises are pretty small (2-3") and this sucker was...maybe 5? Also the coloring and abdomen shape look more like Chinese.
I'll look at the top of my beans as I take them down, to make sure there isn't an egg case in there. The neighbor's trees seem like they would be a safer bet (taller, sturdier), but we'll see.
I don't think I've ever seen a hummingbird around here. I'm sure there are some, just not visiting me. There was a grasshopper in the plant that I kept trying to get (and failing), and, well, I'm guessing it's gone now. The fall is a buffet of cabbage worms. And I have lots of ground crickets that I could live without (or at least fewer of them).
I'll look at the top of my beans as I take them down, to make sure there isn't an egg case in there. The neighbor's trees seem like they would be a safer bet (taller, sturdier), but we'll see.
I don't think I've ever seen a hummingbird around here. I'm sure there are some, just not visiting me. There was a grasshopper in the plant that I kept trying to get (and failing), and, well, I'm guessing it's gone now. The fall is a buffet of cabbage worms. And I have lots of ground crickets that I could live without (or at least fewer of them).
Well, here's a question about an insect that is mooore dangerous to humans than a Praying Mantis ...
the honey bee
I was thinking about this yesterday. Gardeners often have problems with pollination in their annual gardens. The advice is to have lots of flowers (usually perennials) nearby to attract pollinators, like the honeybees. Well, what if the gardening neighborhood doesn't have lots of flowers and the gardner's orientation is vegetable gardening?
End of season now, I have some Thai basil blooming and even on a cool, windy day -- the plants are constantly being visited by honeybees !!. The activity reminds me of what goes on in the front yard with the veronica and what happens when I allow the spearmint to bloom. But these plants aren't in the vegetable garden, except for the basil and it's the wrong time of the year to be concerned about basil attracting bees to pollinate the zucchini or cucumbers or eggplant.
I don't have much problem with pollination in the semi-rural big veggie garden. I think that it's mostly because of all the alfalfa in a neighboring field, all the fruit trees nearby, and the dandelions where they haven't been sprayed in the lawns. (The knapweed along the fences probably is of great benefit to the bees!)
What can gardeners grow in their annual vegetable gardens that really encourages honey bees (& others) to visit, at the right time, and to benefit the pollination of their zucchini, cucumbers and eggplant?
Steve
the honey bee
I was thinking about this yesterday. Gardeners often have problems with pollination in their annual gardens. The advice is to have lots of flowers (usually perennials) nearby to attract pollinators, like the honeybees. Well, what if the gardening neighborhood doesn't have lots of flowers and the gardner's orientation is vegetable gardening?End of season now, I have some Thai basil blooming and even on a cool, windy day -- the plants are constantly being visited by honeybees !!. The activity reminds me of what goes on in the front yard with the veronica and what happens when I allow the spearmint to bloom. But these plants aren't in the vegetable garden, except for the basil and it's the wrong time of the year to be concerned about basil attracting bees to pollinate the zucchini or cucumbers or eggplant.
I don't have much problem with pollination in the semi-rural big veggie garden. I think that it's mostly because of all the alfalfa in a neighboring field, all the fruit trees nearby, and the dandelions where they haven't been sprayed in the lawns. (The knapweed along the fences probably is of great benefit to the bees!)
What can gardeners grow in their annual vegetable gardens that really encourages honey bees (& others) to visit, at the right time, and to benefit the pollination of their zucchini, cucumbers and eggplant?
Steve
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applestar
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I’m gonna come back to this later, but my top recommendAction would be LETTING your vegetable patch mature and bloom. — Not all of it obviously, but leave one of two plants unharvested — HERBS as you pointed out, as well as bolted lettuce and ALL of the greens — Asian, brassicas, carrots, spinach, onions, beets and Swiss chard If they come back next spring.
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TomatoNut95
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Honey bees arent scary unless they're cold and in a bad mood, or you get too close to their hive.
I had a big green creepy spider living in my basil and he was killing the poor honey bees that we're foraging in the blossoms. My honey bees are scarce, so I can't spare any like that. I destroyed the spider, and now my bees are happily and safely foraging in my basil flowers again.
Like I said, my honey bees are scarce. I don't normally see very many. I do have some carpenter bees which do a lot of garden visiting more than the honey bees. Carpenter bees are non aggressive sweethearts and I have even stroked them. When stroked, they have stuck their leg up in the air like, 'nooooo, don't touch me' but in all my life I've never had one attack me or even sting me. As a matter of fact, I heard a story once about a woman who made a pet out of a wingless (bumble or carpenter) bee that she found. She cared for it throughout its lifespan until it died.
I had a big green creepy spider living in my basil and he was killing the poor honey bees that we're foraging in the blossoms. My honey bees are scarce, so I can't spare any like that. I destroyed the spider, and now my bees are happily and safely foraging in my basil flowers again.
Like I said, my honey bees are scarce. I don't normally see very many. I do have some carpenter bees which do a lot of garden visiting more than the honey bees. Carpenter bees are non aggressive sweethearts and I have even stroked them. When stroked, they have stuck their leg up in the air like, 'nooooo, don't touch me' but in all my life I've never had one attack me or even sting me. As a matter of fact, I heard a story once about a woman who made a pet out of a wingless (bumble or carpenter) bee that she found. She cared for it throughout its lifespan until it died.
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pepperhead212
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I don't grow many inedibles, but one that I have out there that flowers all year (once it starts) is alyssum. I strew some seeds in my spearmint patch - everything else I have tried to grow there would simply get choked out, even epazote and other mints, but I have several patches of alyssum out there right now flowering! I'm waiting to see how they re-seed next year, which they seem to do well everywhere else. Bees love those. And herbs are also some I let flower for the bees - sage, dill, chives, marjoram, and Syrian oregano. And then there are those winter squash, which produce huge numbers of male blossoms, which bees love.
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applestar
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I’m back! 
So this one is not everyone’s choice, but I highly recommend moving away from the grass-only lawn to mixed diversity lawn. You do have to be careful because there are some tricksters who have jumped on the bandwagon and are trying to sell mixtures that would never substitute for a good suburban lawn in terms of ultimate height and manageability.
...but then, you really should wake up to the FACT that those so called LAWN grass seed mixes contain grass that need pretty pre-determined amount of fertilizer, fungicide, and pesticide, as well as herbicide and water to Grow into the lush green carpet ... while needing to be cut pretty regularly to keep from growing up to 2 feet or more ultimate height......
I think good place to start the experiment is in areas surrounding the garden. I happen to have not only clover but other small-leaves mint family, a full swath of thyme lawn, experimental areas of sage and yarrow, etc.
If you need a relatively acceptable place to start, start with moderate mixture of low-growing clover species that are suitable for your climate. If you do mow regularly, almost any small-leaved species will work well. If you don’t kill off the biome of the soil, you can depend on the clover-rhizobium symbiosis to supply some of the needed nitrogen.
(...and if you use mulching mower, the chopped up clover as well as the grass will also break down to add fertility)
So this one is not everyone’s choice, but I highly recommend moving away from the grass-only lawn to mixed diversity lawn. You do have to be careful because there are some tricksters who have jumped on the bandwagon and are trying to sell mixtures that would never substitute for a good suburban lawn in terms of ultimate height and manageability....but then, you really should wake up to the FACT that those so called LAWN grass seed mixes contain grass that need pretty pre-determined amount of fertilizer, fungicide, and pesticide, as well as herbicide and water to Grow into the lush green carpet ... while needing to be cut pretty regularly to keep from growing up to 2 feet or more ultimate height......
I think good place to start the experiment is in areas surrounding the garden. I happen to have not only clover but other small-leaves mint family, a full swath of thyme lawn, experimental areas of sage and yarrow, etc.
If you need a relatively acceptable place to start, start with moderate mixture of low-growing clover species that are suitable for your climate. If you do mow regularly, almost any small-leaved species will work well. If you don’t kill off the biome of the soil, you can depend on the clover-rhizobium symbiosis to supply some of the needed nitrogen.
(...and if you use mulching mower, the chopped up clover as well as the grass will also break down to add fertility)
I haven't been honeybee-stung in years. It used to be quite a problem for me as a kid. I would venture out into the pasture barefoot or in sandals. It took me the longest time to learn not to do that! But, I could hardly blame a honeybee, feasting on a clover flower, for stinging the kid who stepped on him.
Only once have I been stung by a bumblebee. I was out early one morning after a rain, gathering an arm-full of flowers. Yep. He was probably chilled to the bone and hiding under the petals. Probably, scared him pretty bad to be bundled up and carried away.
For those of you a little more bee-observant, do honey bees make use of pea blossoms? I tried to come up with an answer for the bee and pea blossom relationship with the beekeepers online but don't really see anything on it.
Steve
with his pea vines in the distant garden where the bees are busy with lots of choices
Only once have I been stung by a bumblebee. I was out early one morning after a rain, gathering an arm-full of flowers. Yep. He was probably chilled to the bone and hiding under the petals. Probably, scared him pretty bad to be bundled up and carried away.
For those of you a little more bee-observant, do honey bees make use of pea blossoms? I tried to come up with an answer for the bee and pea blossom relationship with the beekeepers online but don't really see anything on it.
Steve
with his pea vines in the distant garden where the bees are busy with lots of choices
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MsDDC
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I usually get bumblebees (the fuzzy ones), which are extremely docile. I've picked squash and cucumbers within inches of them and they just keep going about their pollinating work. They love the bigger flowers of those kind of plants. They can really dig in and get all doused in the pollen! My SIL keeps honeybees, so I also leave those well enough alone and am working on flower gardens that will be more suited to their tastes. They do frequent things with smaller flowers, though, and so tomatoes work, as does some of the other advice like letting greens bolt if you can. I usually have a small row I can let bolt before it has to come out, depending on weather...if we have a slightly warm spring, it's easy. This year it only happened because I had multiple emergencies that led to my summer garden going in late, since we had a cool spring. But, with more flowers coming, it won't be as much of a worry within two years or so. If all goes to plan, I'll have something pretty (and perennial with little need to divide! I don't *love* working on flower beds) blooming from late March to mid/late November...
Oh, also, edit to add, honeybees aren't aggressive, and so long as you remain calm around them, they're also unlikely to sting. My SIL has 2 boxes in their small (maybe 300 square foot) home garden, so every time you walk out there, you're going to encounter quite a few bees. She told me to just move "fluidly" and don't swat them, and they'll leave you alone. I've even had one or two land on me, decide I'm not interesting, and just fly off. She typically only gets stung when she doesn't don her suit before pulling out a frame or something, not just generally being near them, or even handling the boxes (like lifting the lid just to examine, NOT pulling out a frame or whatnot).
Oh, also, edit to add, honeybees aren't aggressive, and so long as you remain calm around them, they're also unlikely to sting. My SIL has 2 boxes in their small (maybe 300 square foot) home garden, so every time you walk out there, you're going to encounter quite a few bees. She told me to just move "fluidly" and don't swat them, and they'll leave you alone. I've even had one or two land on me, decide I'm not interesting, and just fly off. She typically only gets stung when she doesn't don her suit before pulling out a frame or something, not just generally being near them, or even handling the boxes (like lifting the lid just to examine, NOT pulling out a frame or whatnot).
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MsDDC
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Also, in direct rely to Applestar, I am also not a big fan of grass. I mean, I need to have some for aesthetic purposes since I won't live in this house forever (if nothing else, I won't be able to climb the stairs to pee for my entire life, since there's no room for a powder room on my main floor), but I've been taking it out as I can since I bought the place. When I bought the place, I had ~1800 square feet of all-"grass" (in quotation marks since it hadn't been cared for and was really mostly invasive weeds) yard. After round one of hardscaping, I was down to 700 square feet (some replaced by patio, most replaced with my food garden beds and some flower beds). After round two of hardscaping (a dry well to improve flooding in my low-lying yard and put in a walkway to go back and forth to the food garden/parking pad/trash area), I knocked off another 125 square feet. This winter, I'm going to knock off another 100 square feet by installing some trees with mulching or flower beds around them. And I'm also going to put in a small rock bed because I'm getting too many weeds from the neighbors on one side that I can't control. So, with all that done, I'll be down to <500 square feet of grass. I can live with that, though I still won't enjoy cutting it.