Pear Seedling 2015

[A Happy Seedling]

How do I tell what variety my pear seedling is? It's less than a month old, still has seed leaves. Has one pair of true leaves and a budding pair of true leaves at the top. Will post photos when possible.

[!potatoes!]

any true seedling of most kinds of fruit won't be a known variety, since known varieties are propagated via grafting, and don't come true from seed. seedlings represent new genetics and as such represent new varieties. knowing what kind of pear the seed came from might give you hints about what fruit this new variety will give, but you'll never know for sure until you get fruit on it.

if you really wanted to check out the fruit sooner, once it was big enough, some of this seedling could be grafted onto an adult pear. this would likely still take a couple of years before you got fruit.

[A Happy Seedling]

I THINK the pear was a Bartlett.

[A Happy Seedling]

I hope it's a new variety, and I hope it's tasty. The reason I plant from seed is exactly this: I might get new varieties.

[A Happy Seedling]

Follow-up questions: The first seed to sprout now has three true leaves, the second one pair of true leaves, the third two cotyledons and no true leaves, the fourth two cotyledons and no true leaves. What do I do with them? The second one is already repotted but the first is still in a plastic cup, should I repot? Can I put the third and fourth in the same container, since they're both weak, small, and young? Which one sounds to be the weakest, so I can give it more care?

[ElizabethB]

The question is where did you get your seed? If you harvested from a store bought pear then you are dealing with a hybrid. Your plant and it's fruit will not be true to the parent.

If you are serious about growing fruit trees you need to do a little homework. First determine which varieties grow and produce well in your region. Fruit trees are VERY region specific. Next determine if the variety you select is self pollinating (you only need one tree) or if you need 2 trees for cross pollination.

Next evaluate your planting site. Do you have enough room for one or two mature trees. While doing your research look at the mature size of the trees. You need at least 10' - 15' clearance on all sides of your trees.

Once you select a site have a soil test done for your specific tree/s.

Amend soil as necessary with nutrients or to adjust the pH.

Once you have done your homework and preparation shop for a young tree - 3 gallon - preferable 5 gallon grafted tree from a reputable nursery. Unless you are very knowledgeable you should not buy fruit trees from a big box store. They are notorious for selling fruit tees that are not region suitable. Purchase from a reputable, local nursery.

Planting: There is an old saying that you plant a .50 plant in a $5 hole.

Dig a hole no deeper than the root ball. Make the hole 3 to 5 times wider than the root ball (the wider the better). Do not amend the soil (do not add compost or commercial soil). Do not fertilize until spring 1 year after planting. Do not prune your tree until spring one year after planting.

Amending the soil will result in the rots not spreading out the way they should. Fertilizing and pruning will push foliage growth and sacrifice root growth.

Water DEEPLY daily for 1 week. 3 times per week for 2 weeks. Twice per week for 3 weeks. Weekly for the next year - more if you are in drought conditions.

Fruit trees need winter protection for the first 3 years.

The only fruit tree I have in my south Louisiana yard is a Satsuma (citrus). It has been in the ground for 3 years. February 14th is my fertilization date. 1 lb of 8-8-8 watered in. Fertilize again mid may.

Growing from seed harvest from store bought fruit is no win situation. You will spend lots of time, effort and $$$ for little or no return.

Good luck

[rainbowgardener]

Personally, I think trying to provide "extra care" to the weakest is sort of a lost cause. There really isn't any such thing as extra care. There is good care that you would provide all of them. Anything extra beyond that (more water? more fertilizer?) is likely to do more harm than good.

I would cull the weakest ones and provide good care to the strongest. You are much more likely to come out with a strong, healthy, surviving tree that way.

[applestar]

ElizabethB has some valid points that should be considered.

...but I also have a tendency to grow from seeds "just because" so if that's what you are doing, be prepared for the little plants to fail. A couple of my seed-grown apple tree babies were planted in spring, growing well and happy, established and grew some more to twice the original size, then promptly became covered by apple downy mildew as soon as the weather became the least bit humid. My other three... No FOUR apple trees had no such problems -- not even a little bit -- but they were purchased and chosen specifically because they are resistant to all the common apple diseases.

First advice I give about what cultivar fruit trees to plant is --look up locally prevalent diseases for what you are planting, and choose cultivars that have proven resistance to those diseases.

A common pear disease is fireblight.

Especially if the seeds came from conventionally grown fruits, you can assume they were grown in miasma of sprays to prevent all kinds of diseases and pests. So unless you are willing to follow suit, you may be disappointed by their lack of resistance and tendency to die.

Your two-true leaf seedling should be in a container with soil depth of at least 6 inches. Seedlings with 4+ true leaves should be uppotted to 1/2 gallon milk or juice cartons with the top cut off and plenty of drainage holes (I cut off all 4 bottom corners and cut vertical slits along the sides.)

[A Happy Seedling]

Ok! I evaluated the third as being the weakest--do you think it will ever produce fruit?

[applestar]

I had to chuckle -- such an optimistic question when I said you should be ready for it to die.

If, if, if -- if you can keep it alive and growing well until the weather is warm enough for it to go outside, ...if you can harden it off properly and not put it out in the sun and wind immediately, ...if you can plant it in an ideal location, ...if it establishes roots and takes off, ...if it doesn't get eaten by bugs or animals and doesn't get fungal or bacterial disease, ...if you prune and train it properly, ...if it's the right kind of cultivar for your location ( per ElizabethB's warning), ...if you fertilize it and prune and train it in timely manner, ...if it grows well for about 5-7 years until it is mature enough to bloom, ...if the bloom time isn't too early to be blasted by frost in your area, ...if there is a second, pollinator compatible pear tree that blooms at the same time in the vicinity and if there are pollinating insects (bees, etc.) to carry the pollen, ...if the tree sets fruits and the fruits are not eaten by bugs or animals or get diseased, ...Then yes.

No, I'm not making fun. But it was fun to think about the hazards your seedling might need to overcome in order to grow up to bear fruits.

[ElizabethB]

If your seed is harvested from store bought fruit it may or may not produce fruit. If it does produce fruit (several years from now) it may or may be edible. It will not be true to the parent.

Sorry.

I have occasionally started plants from hybridized seeds. The results were not worth the effort. With fruits and vegetables, if you just want to "play" then go for it. If you are looking for produce purchase seeds and or established plants. Fruit trees are best grown from grafted plants that are region specific.

I have enjoyed playing around with seeds from hybridized, flowering, landscaping plants, annuals, perennials and bulbs. In a few cases I had attractive, interesting results. Unfortunately they were short lived

Good luck.

[A Happy Seedling]

It came from a Bartlett pear. Do you think whatever it is now is a cultivar that grows in VA? Could Bartletts even grow in VA? If so, their offspring, even though not true to var. because of seed growth, should probably grow here. Oh, and here's a biggie: The pear was organic. The sticker said so!!! This means it's disease resistant.

[JONA]

It came from a Bartlett pear. Do you think whatever it is now is a cultivar that grows in VA? Could Bartletts even grow in VA? If so, their offspring, even though not true to var. because of seed growth, should probably grow here. Oh, and here's a biggie: The pear was organic. The sticker said so!!! This means it's disease resistant.

As has already been said ...any seed planted will produce fruit that has only one of its parents known. In all probability that fruit will be an edible var that you can call whatever you like...its your fruit.!

By the way Bartlett Pears were first grown in Berkhire England in 1770. Over here they are still called by their original name......Williams' Bon Chretien,

As regards Organic. This does not mean that the fruit is disease resistant at all.
All it denotes as that the fruit has been grown using only organic methods and chemicals. It again does mean that it has not had any chemical treatments.
For instance Sulphur is used extensively in organic growing as it is itself an organic product. Whether using large amounts of such materials is that safe environmentally is open to some question.
Personally I think the word ' organic ' should denote something being 'PRAY FREE'

[tomc]

I hope it's a new variety, and I hope it's tasty. The reason I plant from seed is exactly this: I might get new varieties.

There is a whole string of questions here. In fairness the heartyness questions have searchable answers that run on for many pages. If you want a detailed read by all means fire up a search. In broad pear are a member of the rose family, but are closer kin to quince. They graft better to quince than most of the rest of the family, so the separation is geologic. Pear can live and reproduce in zones 3 to 10.

I think a healthy pear in zone 7 could make fruit at maturity (read 6 to 12 years of age). I will leave it to your search to find out if it is self sterile (needs a different pear to pollinate).

Like the entire rose family, insect pollination is the usual means to move pollen from tree to tree. As a result it is a gamble to find out if your tree is a yummy tree for fruit. Feral pear can have a pleasantly small grained texture. Like the cider apple of Johnny Chapmans fame, even a tough grainy pear has utilitarian uses.

Fire blight and how you plan on monitoring it and treating it, will depend on your research. Organic practice means that you have not filled your tree with toxins or chemicals. it does not make it resistant to disease.

You (and your pear) have a lot of maturing hurdles to jump before you eat a pear from your planted seed.

[A Happy Seedling]

Yeah...I hope it manages to jump the fireblight hurdle! That's the hardest one.

[A Happy Seedling]

Update:

The (biggest) pear seedling has four leaves and a budding leaf, its cotyledons are still on it though! I think the stem is beginning the process of lignification (becoming woody) because it has a light brown hue. It is still in a cup, but I went to IKEA and splurged on pots and will repot today/tomorrow. Smaller ones getting along fine.

[A Happy Seedling]

One is actually sealed in a jar, another in a homemade hydroponics system, two in pots. These grow like tomatoes! One grew a new leaf from 6:00 AM (when I woke up, the leaf was fully furled and weak) to 11:00 PM (when I fell asleep after checking on all my plants).

[A Happy Seedling]

Ok, got a toddler tree! But when will the stem start lignifying (becoming woody)? It is now in a small pot on a windowsill, with LOTS of true leaves, but nothing yet in the stem...

[applestar]

With Apple trees, current year's new growth that starts in April-May will become semi-woody by August.

[A Happy Seedling]

Ok, thanks! I will keep you posted about the trees.

[GEOSAN]

Apple summed it up pretty well.... but, forgot the hurricanes, tornados, and ice storms. Makes you wonder why we grow fruit trees, but we still perceiver.
Seedling trees ( grown from seed) are commonly used in grafting... putting a good known variety onto the seedling rootstock.

[A Happy Seedling]

True...I guess we can't live without fruit! Your morning apple, the Wegmans fruit cups, the olives and feta cheese, the lemon juice on your fish, and the fresh clementine with your breakfast--they're all fruit.

[A Happy Seedling]

My first to sprout has a curled new leaf but IT IS NOT MOVING A MILLIMETER FOR A WEEK NOW! Why? Also, the one in the jar is taller than the first one to sprout. Help!

[applestar]

Could you post their photos?

[A Happy Seedling]

I'll try.

[JONA]

My first to sprout has a curled new leaf but IT IS NOT MOVING A MILLIMETER FOR A WEEK NOW! Why? Also, the one in the jar is taller than the first one to sprout. Help!

Hi Happy
Just to add my two penneth.
Pears and apples growing on their own roots will always be all over the place in their growth rates. That's one of the main reasons that we use root stocks as an orchard of trees on their own roots would be all over the place in their heights.
I think you will have fun seeing the results of your seedlings. But remember that breeders usually reject about 90% of their efforts.
Good luck.

[A Happy Seedling]

Thanks. I was wondering why my tree in a jar was taller than the potted one...that makes sense. I was wondering what happens if I pinch off the new leaf bud; maybe it will start growing again? Oh, and the two biggest got rid of their cotyledons.

[JONA]

The snag with pinching off the tip bud is that it may induce side shoots to form. As these would at this stage be in the completely wrong place it could slow the whole growing process down. Be patient and give it a couple more months. If nothing then....try a tipping.

[A Happy Seedling]

Okay! What do you think will happen to the one in the homemade hydroponics system? It's still alive so far...

[JONA]

I guess as its hydroponic you can see the root system that's developing....once there is a nice root on it then it can be planted on into a soil based medium. Make sure that it never dries out though at the early stage as it will desiccate very quickly.

[A Happy Seedling]

Ok! Its root already grew into my non-soil medium, which is Nature's latest cutting-edge growth medium...sand, lol. But I'll wait a little more. I can't believe it is growing faster than the GRASSES in the SAME SYSTEM! But anyway...I will plant it eventually.

[tomc]

Maybe I'm feeling fatalistic, but if it is entertaining and helps you get your Luther Burbank on. Don't worry too much if some (or all) of these pear babies don't survive.

I want you to keep on. One growing trial tends to lead to the next. Have you read up on how to make airlayers yet?

[A Happy Seedling]

What are airlayers? I know some will die, I just fertilized the biggest two with UCG's so they won't get eaten by bugs.

[A Happy Seedling]

Yay! The first one is growing again! Success! I wonder if UCG's have nutritional value, as within a week of using them I noticed growth!

[applestar]

UCG's do have minute nutrients and minerals -- not so much that you could call them fertilizer. But I think the value is in the way they attract and nurture fungi that help to increase the biodiversity in the soilfoodweb and also improve soil texture. I believe trees and shrubs, in particular, benefit from increased fungal soil.

[A Happy Seedling]

Oh, interesting. Since this is a tree, that makes sense.

[A Happy Seedling]

I hope it's a new variety, and I hope it's tasty. The reason I plant from seed is exactly this: I might get new varieties.

I think a healthy pear in zone 7 could make fruit at maturity (read 6 to 12 years of age). I will leave it to your search to find out if it is self sterile (needs a different pear to pollinate).
[...]
Like the entire rose family, insect pollination is the usual means to move pollen from tree to tree. As a result it is a gamble to find out if your tree is a yummy tree for fruit. Feral pear can have a pleasantly small grained texture. Like the cider apple of Johnny Chapmans fame, even a tough grainy pear has utilitarian uses...

Well, what am I gonna ( ) do if this thing makes it but it's self-sterile? The only way I could get it pollinated them would be to go Callery Pear-flower picking and use the anthers to pollinate my tree...Calleries can pollinate domestics, yes?

Ok...
No one else has a pear tree mature enough to pollinate mine. Well a friend has an Asian pear. But that's not going to work. Sooooo...how'll I do this?

[applestar]

Callery pear is also an asian pear....

Let's move this discussion onto the update thread https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/vi ... 20&t=66605